WHERE TRADITION MEETS DOCTORADO

Our approach to Doctorado began by going back to the roots of tequila and understanding what actually has to happen before a spirit ever reaches a barrel. Distilled agave spirits were already being produced in Mexico long before the 1700s, and by that century the tradition was well established. What is easy to overlook today is just how much of the process begins years before anything reaches a distillery.

Blue Weber agave is not a seasonal crop. A plant may spend roughly six to ten years in the ground before reaching suitable maturity, accumulating the carbohydrates that will eventually provide the sugars necessary for fermentation. During those years the plant develops a tall flowering stalk, called a quiote, unless it is removed so that the plant's stored energy remains concentrated in the heart. By harvest, a mature agave represents years of cultivation invested in something that will be harvested only once.

The harvest itself is known as the jima and remains one of the most recognizable parts of tequila making. A skilled jimador works with a coa, a long-handled tool ending in a sharp circular blade, to cut away the long pointed pencas surrounding the plant. What remains is the heart, or piña, named for its resemblance to an enormous pineapple. Depending upon the plant and growing conditions, these piñas can become remarkably heavy, and once removed from the earth they begin the next part of the process almost immediately.

Raw agave is not simply crushed and fermented. Much of the energy stored inside the plant exists as complex fructans that must first be broken down into simpler, fermentable sugars. Traditionally, the piñas are cut and packed into masonry ovens known as hornos, where heat and steam slowly cook them. A traditional cooking cycle may continue for roughly 24 to 48 hours, sometimes longer, followed by additional time for the agave to rest and cool. During this process the firm, pale piña softens and darkens as its carbohydrates are converted into the sweet sugars needed for fermentation. The transformation also begins developing aromas and flavors that will remain important much later in the process.

Once cooked, the agave has to give up those sugars. Historically this meant crushing the softened piñas, eventually giving rise to the tahona, the massive stone wheel traditionally pulled around a circular pit to crush the cooked agave and release its sweet juice. Modern roller mills can accomplish the extraction much more efficiently, while some contemporary production uses diffusers and other technologies. The objective remains fundamentally the same: recover the sugars that the plant spent years storing and that cooking has made available for fermentation.

Only then can fermentation begin.

Before commercial yeast cultures existed, naturally occurring yeasts associated with the agave, equipment, and surrounding environment could begin consuming those sugars. Modern producers may instead select cultivated strains for greater control and consistency. Depending upon the method, temperature, yeast, and distillery, fermentation commonly takes somewhere around one to four days. During that time yeast converts the agave sugars into alcohol, but alcohol is only part of what is being created. Fermentation also produces many of the aromatic and flavor compounds that will follow the spirit through distillation. By the time fermentation is complete, the resulting liquid, commonly called mosto, resembles a relatively low-alcohol agave beer rather than the clear spirit people recognize as tequila.

That fermented liquid is now ready for the still.

Tequila is generally distilled at least twice. Traditional pot stills are commonly made from copper, while modern distilleries may use stainless steel equipment, copper components, or combinations of the two. The choice matters. Stainless steel is durable, clean, and relatively neutral, while copper can interact chemically with compounds in the vapor and influence the character of the resulting spirit.

The first distillation separates and concentrates the alcohol from the fermented mosto, producing a stronger intermediate spirit traditionally known as ordinario. That liquid is distilled again, and this second distillation demands considerably more judgment than simply boiling alcohol a second time. Different compounds vaporize and emerge from the still at different stages. The early portion is known as the heads, the desirable central portion becomes the heart, and the later portion becomes the tails. Where those cuts are made influences aroma, flavor, texture, and ultimately the character of the spirit. Distillation therefore does not simply make tequila stronger. In skilled hands, it decides which parts of everything created during years of cultivation, hours of cooking, and days of fermentation will be carried forward.

By this point, something remarkable has happened. A plant that may have spent the better part of a decade growing has been harvested once, cooked for days, crushed, fermented, and distilled twice before a single drop ever encounters a wooden barrel.

During the 1700s, another distilled spirit was becoming increasingly important in the United States. American farmers were turning corn, rye, and other grains into whiskey, and as whiskey traveled farther from where it was made, it traveled in wooden barrels. The economics were simple. A barrel filled with valuable whiskey was worth transporting great distances. Once the whiskey was sold, however, paying to send a large empty barrel all the way back to where it began often made little sense.

That circumstance became increasingly important as the American West expanded. Mining and settlement transformed California, Nevada, and Arizona, bringing growing communities and an enormous demand for provisions, including whiskey. Barrels traveled west full and frequently remained after they were emptied. They still had years of useful life, but without the whiskey inside, their commercial value was considerably different. Some were used to store water, grain, and other goods. Others were traded or sold into a growing market for used cooperage, where a perfectly serviceable barrel could be acquired for a fraction of the cost and effort involved in making and transporting a new one.

As the story goes, Mexico soon recognized the practicality of what was sitting nearby. Tequila was becoming an increasingly viable commercial product of its own, and producers needed barrels for storage and transportation. Used American whiskey barrels were durable, available, and economical. Instead of commissioning new cooperage, an existing oak barrel that had already completed one commercial life could simply begin another.

Then something far more valuable than the savings revealed itself.

The Tequila changed.

Time against the oak gave the clear spirit color. The wood contributed aroma, texture, and flavor, while barrels that had previously held American whiskey brought oak already seasoned through years of interaction with another spirit. Vanilla, caramel, toast, spice, and other characteristics of maturation began appearing alongside the underlying character of the agave. A barrel chosen because it made practical and economic sense had demonstrated that it could contribute something worth seeking for its own sake.

That realization changed the role of the barrel. What had served as an economical means of storage and transportation gradually became part of the tequila maker's craft. Producers learned that new oak behaved differently from seasoned oak, that toast and char mattered, that the barrel's previous use mattered, and that time itself could be used to develop color, aroma, and flavor. Eventually, producers were no longer choosing barrels simply because they needed somewhere to put the spirit. They were choosing them for what they could contribute to it.

Tequila continued to evolve. Modern producers gained cultivated yeast strains, precise temperature control, sophisticated distillation equipment, improved sanitation, analytical laboratories, and an understanding of chemistry and microbiology that earlier makers could never have possessed. These advances brought genuine improvements, while also making possible levels of speed, volume, consistency, and economy that would once have been unimaginable.

When we began developing Doctorado, we wanted to understand that entire progression rather than simply imitate what tequila production had become. We studied the agave, cooking, fermentation, distillation, and oak, including those moments in history when a decision made for practical reasons revealed something valuable enough to preserve long after the original necessity had disappeared.

This is one reason the barrels selected for Doctorado matter so much to us. We use both new American oak and carefully selected barrels previously used to mature American whiskey to make our spirit. New oak gives us one relationship between spirit and wood; seasoned whiskey oak gives us another. We select between them according to what each contributes, carrying forward a practice whose value eventually became much greater than the economy that may once have encouraged it.

The same principle guides the rest of Doctorado. We are willing to use modern knowledge where it produces something better and equally willing to look backward when history provides an answer worth preserving. The precise formulation and certain elements of our process remain proprietary, but the standard behind them does not. Cost, speed, volume, and convenience were never allowed to define improvement.

Doctorado is the result of following tequila's history rather than merely borrowing its traditions. From a blue Weber agave that can require the better part of a decade to mature, through the jima, cooking, extraction, fermentation, double distillation, and finally the influence of carefully selected oak, we sought to understand not only what generations before us did, but why they did it, what they discovered along the way, and which of those discoveries still deserve a place in an exceptional spirit today.

For a bottle intended to recognize something that may have taken years to achieve, we believed that history was worth understanding before deciding what belonged inside it.